“There’s nothing quite like a simple loaf cake to reassure one that all is okay with the world.”

These are the encouraging words of Yotam Ottolenghi, at the start of his recipe for “Blueberry, Almond, and Lemon Cake” from his latest Ottolenghi Simple cookbook.

I admit that a loaf-pan cake is the most stress-free of all cakes: pour it in, bake it, turn it out, eat it. Really.

Appreciate your nice yellow batter (almond meal, eggs, butter). The staggered blueberries are perfect.

Sweet and rich, with just enough lemon. A joy.